The First Interactive Virtual Tourism Centre on the GTPNet
developed by UNTPDC in cooperation with PUSDATA and Bali Trade Point
"Transport, transport! You need transport?" An all too familiar catch-cry.
"No transport, jalan jalan!" The frustrated tourist's reply. Another bemo will pass by in a moment, and another chorus of the same song will be sung. Finding a ride is that easy!
Getting around on the tiny island is never a real problem, and there are plenty of modes of transport available to the traveller. Walking is the most basic way of getting around, and your own feet will serve you around the village, beach or resort area where you are staying. But to travel further afield, some other form of transport must be found.
Most travellers are satisfied to get about via bemo (chartered vehicles with driver), taxi (metered) or public buses (usually mini-buses, also known as bemos or colts). Whenever you are walking in Bali, you can be sure that the too familiar cry of "Bemo, bemo, bemo" or "Transport transport" will be heard eminating from almost every car that passes you by.
If the vehicle has a taxi meter, insist that it be used (unless you are very confident that you can negotiate the "best" price to your destination). Often, the driver will offer you a fixed fare, or will tell you the meter is broken etc. If the vehicle is a "private" bemo, and has no meter, you will have to bargain for the cost of the charter before taking the ride. This is often very daunting to those who have never haggled before, which is of course to the benefit of the driver. Some people prefer to offer a very low bid, then try to hold the driver to a small premium, while others allow the driver to open the negotiations, hoping to settle at about half the initial price.
Public bemos and buses are by far the cheapest mode of transport, although the trip you take may often be via "the scenic route", and they are often very crowded. Long trips by public bus can be downright uncomfortable, and don’t be surprised to be sharing the ride with all kinds of produce and livestock!
The grid below indicates the approximate distances (in kilometers) and the times taken to travel between some of Bali's major centres. Note that the distances and times will vary depending upon your chosen mode of transport and factors such as whether direct routes are available. Travelling through the mountainous central and east coast roads can be slow, even over short distances.
Above: Approximate travelling times and distances between major centres.
Note that most public bemo routes are via Denpasar, and that interchanging is usually required. There are several bus stations in Denpasar and each services an exclusive part of the island of Bali. The list below indicates the bus stations and the major centres that they service.
For example: To travel by public bemo from Kuta to Lovina, you must catch the bus from "Bemo Corner" in Kuta, and travel to Tegal bus station. Interchange from there to Ubung bus station where you may catch the bus to Singaraja. Change to the local bus at Singaraja for the Lovina beach area.
Interchange between the bus stations in Denpasar will cost about Rp.700 - 1000.
All prices listed above are approximate, and generally err on the high side. Ticket prices will almost always increment in round numbers such as Rp.500, so allow up to that amount over the above prices to account for possible price changes.
As a rule of thumb, Rp.500 is the lowest fare for very short local runs, such as within a village or between nearby villages (although sometimes Rp.1,000 will be insisted upon) Longer journeys will cost more, however Rp.5,000 per person should be considered excessive for all but the very longest of trips.
Fares are generally payed to a collector, and are sometimes very negotiable for farang (foreigners). You may be asked Rp.3000 when the correct price (harga biasa) for the fare is Rp.1,000 or less. If you pay the correct amount (keep small notes for fares) you will rarely receive an argument.
Still, public busses are the way to experience places and people that you would otherwise have never seen, and if you take on the journey in the right spirirt, you will find that getting to your destination is part of the fun and adventure of Asian travel!
Public bemos have set routes, and often you will find that the village you wish to get to is not connected directly via a bus route. You should try to find the best way to get to "point B" from your host before leaving your accommodation, or from a warung or bus station in the larger villages (ask for the correct price as well). Always try to double check transfers, and if necessary ask to be informed when you reach your destination.
Take care that in a crowded bus it may not be possible to keep your bags in sight, so always keep valuables such as passports, tickets, money etc. on you (in a moneybelt or hand-held bag).
The environment will thank you for using a bicycle to do your exploring. Many villages have a place where you can hire a bike for about Rp.5,000 to Rp.10,000 per day (sometimes a lower price may be negotiated, especially if the bike is old) An additional deposit may be required. Weekly rates are probably less.
Always check the state of the bike (brakes, chain, tyres etc.) and do not accept a faulty machine--you may be accused of breaking it when you return it later to the hirer, even if you don’t do yourself any harm.
Only you can tell how viable bicycling is (hilly areas may offer no problem to the fit and healthy, but, combined with the tropical heat, may cause unfit riders to back-pedal directly into a medical emergency).
Remember also, that Balinese road conditions are not always suited to long bike rides, there are many steep hills, and the traffic can be hazardous (Avoid the main roads and their crazy drivers. Buy a good map such as the "Bali Pathfinder" which is available in Ubud, and pick routes that will take you through the smaller villages).
Most important to remember: ride on the left side of the road.
Motobikes may be the answer for the do-it-yourself traveller who can ride one. A motorbike will take you to any part of the island at your own pace, and you'll see many interesting things that you couldn't get to see any other way.
The hire rate for a motorbike is usually more than double the rate for a bicycle, they require an insurance premium, and you must have a drivers licence, so be sure to have aranged for an international licence before leaving home, otherwise, you'll have to purchase a Balinese license, which requires a written test (but no driving test). Getting a Balinese licence is a waste of valuable time.
If you intend hiring a motorbike (usually a 100cc or 125cc throbber), be sure to check its condition, and to get a good helmet in the deal.
Motorbike accidents are one of the leading causes of injury to foreign tourists on Bali, and many of the roads are dangerously narrow, with cars, busses and trucks often overtaking the underpowered bikes even when there are oncoming vehicles!
Hire cars, usually tiny Japanese 4WD’s, are more expensive again (about Rp.50,000 and up, per day). They of course have the advantage that up to about four people may be carried, however as a long term hiring proposition they are probably out of the bounds of the budget traveller. Again, an insurance premium may be required (in addition to the hire rate), and you must have a drivers licence (minimum age conditions may also apply). The vehicles almost always have manual transmissions, and are right-hand drive (you must drive on the left).
Tour buses and coaches are often unpalatable to the budget tourist except for undertaking the longest journeys, however some package tours include a complementary trip to the mountains, or to a special cultural event for instance. If they are required, tour bus tickets may be purchased at some hotels and almost any travel or tour agent in Bali at advertised fixed rates.
A few transport companies provide a medium cost long distance travel service which are well short of the luxuries of the large coaches, but far more convenient than the crowded public buses. Keep these in mind for transferring to a village on the other side of the island for instance. All prices are listed at the travel agencies (such as Perama travel) and are fixed.
A word of warning: Although crime is not prevalent in Bali, travelling by public bus does expose you to the possibility of having your bags rifled or stolen, and to being robbed by pickpockets. Be on your guard against theft, and be aware that you may not always be able to watch you bags. Keep you valuable possesions and documents in a money belt.
