HARARE AND SURROUNDS

Zimbabwe's capital, Harare, set some 1479m (4823 ft.) above sea level on the highveld ridge, is a small city by international standards, though the wider metropolitan area embraces a population of more than a million. In central business district is a modern, bustling complex of neat-looking buildings and unusually broad thoroughfares that conform to a strict grid; its outlying avenues, notably those to the north, are graced by a myriad flowering trees. The suburbs are particularly lovely in springtime, when the jacarandas display their feathery, lilac-coloured blooms, but other tree species are almost as numerous and beautiful.

Of special note are Harare's public gardens, a stone's throw from the city centre and a delightfully refreshing oasis of lawns, exotic and indigenous trees, trimmed bedding, a bandstand and open-air theatre.

On their southern perimeter stands the architecturally striking National Gallery, repository of, among other things, some splendid Zimbabwean stone sculpture - a distinctive art form that has earned wide acclaim. According to the experts, at least five of the world's leading sculptor-carvers are Zimbabwean. Fine examples, too, can be seen in the Vhukutiwa Garden in Milton Park, and in the Chapungu Kraal, a recreated Shona village on the eastern edge of the city. The latter also features African tribal and traditional dancing at weekends, accompanied by a live marimba band.

There is a sculpture of a quite different kind of Hero's Acre, a 57 ha (141 acre) monument to those who fell during the guerrilla war that finally ended with independence in 1980. Principal elements here are the bronze statue of the Unknown Soldier, and a site museum that tells the story of that grim conflict.

A must for visitors in search of local colour is Musika Market in the 'tin and mango' suburb and bus terminus of Mbare, to the south of the city - a crowded, noisy, wonderfully vital place offering crafts, fruit vegetables, herbal potions and much else. Situated in Willowvale is a more sedate but equally fascinating emporium, the Tobacco Sales Floor - the largest tobacco auction centre in the world. Visitors are welcome to listen to the frantic bidding and tour the floors from April through October.

Nature lovers have plenty to choose from in and around Harare. Among the drawcard are the Mukuvisi Woodlands and game park where you can see elephant, zebra, crocodile, antelope and waterfowl. For the serious bird-watcher there are the Larvon Bird Gardens, on the Bulawayo road, which contains 250 species in walk-through aviaries.

The entrancing Ewanrigg Botanical Gardens to the northeast of Harare are famed for their aloes, and, 37 km (23 miles) west of the city, is the capital's weekend playground, Lake Chivero Recreational Park, a pleasant venue for boating, sailing, fishing, game-viewing, (rhino, giraffe, zebra, buck), walking, and relaxing around a barbecue fire.

The capital city, Harare at night.

A Mashona basket-maker displays her intricate wickerwork.

One of the many striking 'balancing rocks' to be seen in the countryside around Harare.

The tobacco auctions, held in Harare's Willowvale area, yield millions in foreign earnings.

BULAWAYO

Zimbabwe's second city, Bulawayo, lies at a much lower altitude and is generally hotter and drier than Harare. For much of the time the place tends to look parched, its streets covered by a thin film of Kalahari sand, but the well-watered central area and its adjacent parkland - a broad 'green lung' that flanks the Amatsheumhlope River - remains gloriously verdant throughout the year. The residential gardens, too, are lovely, and the wide thoroughfares, originally designed to allow a full span of oxen to turn, are lined by old British colonial buildings and a gorgeous profusion of jacarandas and crisom flames.

HWANGE NATIONAL PARK

MOTOBO NATIONAL PARK

VICTORIA FALLS

LAKE KARIBA

ZAMBEZI VALLEY

NYANGA NATIONAL PARK

MUTARE AREA

CHIMANIMANI

GREAT ZIMBABWE

GONAREZHOU NATIONAL PARK

EASTERN KARIBA AND ZAMBEZI VALLEY

VICTORIA FALLS AND HWANGE

WESTERN KARIBA

HARARE REGION

BULAWAYO REGION

MASVINGO AREA

EASTERN HIGHLANDS

THE LOWVELD